off the cuff! bespoke suits

Designers in focus: Paul Smith

2008-09-09T15:39:00.004Z

In order to stay ahead of the pack and get the look for your bespoke suit that makes you stand out from the crowd, I will be profiling designers over the next few weeks, so you can get a feel for what styles are out there and which you prefer. Knowing what look you’re aiming for always helps when choosing a bespoke suit and with so many variations abound, having a good sense of the overall

Designers in focus: Tom Ford

2008-09-09T15:23:00.006Z

As promised I'm continuing to delve into the world of the men's suit designers who are turning heads worldwide, and this week I've been looking at the work of Tom Ford.As an American designer famous for injecting a renewed sense of creativity at the Gucci fashion house in the 1990's, Tom Ford has worked his way up to the top of the fashion tree working for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent to become

Fabric

2008-07-11T15:23:00.004Z

Having previously discussed seasonal fabrics, this week I'd like to look at the importance of fabric in any men's suit no matter what the season. We all know that the cut of a bespoke suit makes the difference between standing out in the crowd and having a standardised version of the suit you'd like, but let's not forget how important the right kind of fabric is in the equation.Your choice of

7 tips to make sure your suit always looks its finest

2008-07-03T14:14:00.004Z

1. The defining feature as to whether any men's suit looks its best is the fit. Bespoke suits are of course a perfect choice for the man who wants to look as stylish as possible with as little effort as possible.One aspect of the fit, which defines the overall impression your suit will make, is the shape of the shoulders. Shoulder pads are used in most modern suits these days to accentuate the

Wedding Suits

2008-06-06T09:38:00.004Z

This week I've been thinking about the summer and how the season can affect your choice of suits. With summer being wedding season it's a sensible idea to consider a distinguished style of suit that will be adaptable enough to wear to work and for formal occasions. Attending a wedding doesn't have to mean the usual morning suit look; you can choose a formal 3-piece suit as a suitable

Style Icon – Mark Ronson

2008-06-06T09:31:00.002Z

This week I'd like to turn my attention to upcoming style icon Mark Ronson. With a Brit award for Best British Male Artist for his stylised ‘Versions’ album and a 2008 Grammy Award for Producer of the Year for his work with Amy Winehouse on the multi-award winning album ‘Back To Black’ behind him, you'd think that this man had enough strings to his bow already. Increasingly however, his

Seasonal material

2008-06-02T08:40:00.004Z

Summer is officially on its way and so as a result I've been investigating the best materials for this season’s suits so you can stay cool whilst looking hot. There are many materials and fabric mixes on the market to choose from in the warmer months than ever before. With choices of combed cottons, linens and even virgin wool suit mixes there are also Coolmax polyesters on the market. The

The right trousers

2008-05-15T11:32:00.003Z

Having focused on lapel styles and accessories in the last few weeks, I'd like to turn my attention to the most important part of any man's suit: the trouser. The well-fitted trouser is the most essential factor to get right as, no matter what the situation (whether in an informal meeting or just walking home), you may take your jacket off but your trousers are always in evidence. One of the

Accessories

2008-04-29T09:19:00.005Z

This week I want to talk about the importance of making your bespoke suit reflect who you are. Of course a tailor-made men’s suit works wonders for your figure and can improve your confidence, but whether you’ve got a strong personality or like being a wallflower there are accessories you can employ to show off your flair for individuality. Belts are a good way to complete your image. There are

How to Tie a Bow Tie With Three-Piece Suits

2008-04-16T13:44:00.016Z

Since my last posting was all about waistcoats and how best to wear them, I thought I'd run through a quick guide on how to tie a bow tie. For the more formal occasions and in league with a three-piece suit, the bow tie is one of the greatest accessories to offset a distinguished, or even colourfully eccentric, look. Whether you're attending a black or white tie event

Two piece or not two piece? That is the question…

2008-04-14T09:56:00.004Z

Bespoke two-piece suits should be a staple in the modern man's wardrobe and, whether worn as in a professional or distinguished, the style can say a lot about you. This week I have been looking into where the three-piece suit fits into the equation and I have come up with some interesting musings on the subject along the way. It's been observed that Daniel Craig has been sporting a gilet by

How to tie a Windsor knot

2008-04-04T14:31:00.006Z

Men's formal suits have hit the catwalks in a big way this season, with every menswear fashion show of any note featuring our favourite fashion statement boldly and proudly. Proving that custom suits really can cut it in this age we were shown a fantastic display of male grooming at its best, with bold statements made by designers such as Ann Demeulemeester in her Fall/Winter collection, on

Suits on the Street 2008

2008-02-25T16:31:00.008Z

At A Suit That Fits we pay close attention to suit trends – we often ask ourselves, what will the suits on the streets be in 2008? Will the three-buttoned suit succumb to the two-button as the contemporary gent’s suit of choice; will formal wear continue its resurgence in popularity and will classic fabrics be superceded by lightweight, quality fabrics with the right balance of classic fit and

The Rochester: A Suit Review

2007-01-27T00:56:00.000Z

“England – alas, my country! – has degenerated very much, and is degenerating every day. She has not many gentlemen left. We are few. I see nothing to succeed us but a race of weavers.” So said dear Mr. Turveydrop in Dickens' 'Bleak House'.Which brings us to the word ‘deportment’. ‘Deportment’, you will learn, is a very special word, which touches on every aspect of what it means to be, not only

'The Grenadier': A Suit Review

2007-01-11T11:53:00.000Z

Grenadine was traditionally made from the juice of crushed pomegranates. It was thus a deep blood-red. The term ‘grenadier’ might not have anything to do with ‘red’ (it comes from the French ‘grenade-man’ or ‘soldier who threw grenades’, which were, in fact, named after pomegranates due to their being a similar size - confused yet?) but to the simple folk here in Great Britain, the Grenadier

The Beauty of Light and Black Satin

2007-01-05T14:44:00.000Z

No self-respecting gentleman can expect to survive long without a dinner-suit. Whether you’re going to your end-of-year ball or some fancy do with your prestigious law-firm, our dinner-suit will make you stand out in style. More than anything, however, it’s the satin that speaks to me – one of those strange instances when the aesthetic impression becomes as powerful as a drug, exerting the same

'The Oyster': a suit

2006-12-22T12:43:00.000Z

This is the ultimate in luxury from A Suit That Fits. Smoky, palpably-soft cashmere shot through with a delicate stripe. The softness of touch is complimented by an equally soft aesthetic in the powder-pink lining, which shimmers like mother of pearl.This is not a suit to wear lightly. It's not a suit to overuse. It’s a piece of art, carefully crafted like a pot or a painting or a box inlaid with

'The Accused': A Suit Review

2006-12-15T13:11:00.000Z

When a man stands accused, he might as well look his best. This dark blue suit with its ultra-thin pinstripe - reminiscent of a convict's PJs - is perfect for the accused man who wants to retain some dignity in his life. It’s the suit to be caught in whilst brawling with pool-sticks after a night on the town. It’s the suit to be seen in in a court of law, just before being sent down. It’s the

'The Jewelled Gecko': A Suit Review

2006-12-13T13:08:00.000Z

Grey means serious. Grey means elegant. Grey means powerfully conservative. Grey, in fact, means all of these things, but by no means is it a stranger to fun.For those who take their style seriously but like to wear something bright, this is exactly what the doctor ordered - one of those combinations that work wonders on the eye. Here 'green' and 'grey' are put to stunning use, with the soft,

'The Scholar': A Suit in Pictures

2006-12-11T12:30:00.000Z

An eccentric English gentlemen asked us to create the perfect suit. This is what we came up with: a 21st century look with an edge of scholarly seriousness. Here we see the two-piece suit matched with a gorgeous satin-backed waistcoat for the complete look of bespoke elegance. Browse the photos below for a close-up of each immaculate finish; we’re sure you’ll agree it’s a work of stunning

'The Urban Grey': A Suit Review

2006-11-30T10:09:00.000Z

A youthful modish grey, this single-breasted double-buttoned suit is perfect for those who want to inject a bit of style into the office environment. With no trouser pleats and flapless pockets, the extras have been kept to an absolute minimum for a streamlined, ultra-chic effect. Brightened by a blood-red tie and a cut-away shirt-collar, this suit combines the formality of our standard model

'The Baroque': A Suit Review

2006-11-29T09:29:00.000Z

With its opulent lining and elegantly tapered waist, this unusual suit - fresh from the garment house A Suit That Fits - has a definite touch of the baroque. Brilliantly fitted with a gorgeous lining, it clings like a lover to the sides of your chest, heightening every sensation. One touch of the pure wool fabric, liberally padded and lined with satin, and we guarantee you’ll never want to wear

The Cinema and a Pale Yellow Jumper

2006-11-27T14:39:00.000Z

What a cool evening I had last night. After ten minutes of waiting outside the wrong Odeon on Leicester Square (did you know there were two?) Sean rang me to see where I was. When we finally met he was wearing a lemon jumper and his hair looked blacker than before, as black as soot in fact. We shared coffee/toffee ice-cream in the Odeon and then watched The Prestige. Sitting in the cinema with

Tockington Manor

2006-11-24T10:52:00.000Z

I went to a Chroma reading last night at Waterstones on Oxford Street (Chroma is a literary journal in which my poems have appeared) to watch my writer-pal Brynn read his winning story, Spawn of the Regime. While he was chatting to Louise Hercules, this month's Chroma cover-girl, I sat down with a mince-pie and a glass of water and looked around at the crowd. Straight away, I found my eyes drawn

The Blackened Caryatids of St. Pancras Church

2006-11-21T09:36:00.000Z

The other day I wrote the following lines:Below the vast November sky the heat-cracked surface lieshalf an inch up, baking and changed,the roots are fruitlessly unearthed.The blackened caryatids of St. Pancras Church stand like sentinels,themselves unobserved – potential reminders of a cancerous London.Something moves lugubriously in the earth. The armoured octopi have stirred;their feelers snake

Impressions of Paris

2006-11-14T10:22:00.000Z

Yesterday I wanted to write about my weekend but every time I touched the keys the words failed to do justice to my thoughts. I wanted to write about the sunset over the Seine, the way the light falling on the water spread like the petals of a rose. I wanted to describe my friend's face, how his skin was oranged by the glow, and his pale eyes, usually so controlled, opened wonderously wide. I

A Suit That Fits A Woman

2006-11-08T11:35:00.000Z

Here at A Suit That Fits we've received substantial interest from women looking to buy men's suits. Of course we've been happy to oblige. There's nothing sexier, more mysterious, than a woman in a man's suit. When Marlene Dietrich donned the above number, eyes glowering above seductively wettened lips, she made an important statement about gender and the clothes we wear. Women, she said, need not

Dark Outside

2006-11-03T17:07:00.000Z

Outside it is dark. A thousand windows glitter over London. Coldplay's 'Kingdom Come' plays on the radio, reminding me of my ex's belief that if he waited for me I'd be... his. Sadness spreads through me. Soon I'll be shooting out those doors - into the night - onto the pavement - the Tube - towards Warren Street where I'm meeting friends. Will any of it shake this heavy sadness? In our lunch

Selling, Suiting and Writing...

2006-11-01T10:54:00.000Z

This morning I had to pitch an article to the Pink Paper in the hope that they'd be interested in the company I work for. I've never liked selling myself or my writing. It's one of the reasons I became a writer. When it comes to expressing myself, I need time to find the most effective words. If I was super-confident, why would I need to write at all? Writing is for people who have trouble

Islington, Autumn and a Dream

2006-10-31T09:33:00.000Z

For a change it wasn't hard to get out of bed this morning. The clocks went back a few days ago so my room was flooded with light. My room is bright even on grey days (the creamy walls and big, big windows create a suntrap above London) but this morning it was literally beaming. I'd woken from a dream in which friends from various walks of my life had gathered at an awards ceremony in a

Sunlight

2006-10-27T08:38:00.000Z

I was sitting on the bus this morning, travelling into the city, when the sun shone through the windscreen and fell against my face. At first I looked away, dazzled by the light. Then, thinking better of it, I fixed my gaze ahead of me and let the sunlight fall where it liked. After the preceding week's greyness it was a stunning change to see these bright yellow rays. They seemed to wipe out the

The Sexy City-Worker Destroyed

2006-10-26T09:24:00.000Z

City workers are a curious commodity. On the one hand they project a powerful style, epitomised by the pinstripe suit; on the other, they represent the pursuit of money in a solely economic world. Only this morning, as I was passing Bank, I noticed a young banker in line at the cash machine. There was something about him that stopped me in my tracks, and I stood fixated at the entrance to the

Thoughts of Ivory and Red

2006-10-21T13:14:00.000Z

When our latest customer’s suit arrived this morning, my colleagues thought it had a touch of the Man from Del Monte. I found it decidedly more sinister than that.Off-white, finely-woven, at first it conjured images of a pleasant, grey-haired man strolling contentedly beneath a hot Spanish sun. The ideal suit, we thought, for wearing at garden parties at the height of summer or for watching

The Green Subversion Has Begun

2006-10-19T11:06:00.000Z

Who would have thought that a bright green lining could look so freaking COOL? That's what occured to me this morning when I opened the parcel containing our customers' latest suits. The suit itself was a navy affair, made from the softest cashmere. It wasn't until I looked inside that my eyes started painfully reeling, in wonder at this stunning green. If you'd told me last week that this rather

Face Races! - a crazy new internet phenomenon

2006-10-18T10:47:00.000Z

Combining narcissism with business is hardly a new idea. With anything successful these days, image is of the utmost importance. But a website that exploits this rule so egregiously by letting people advertise their webspace using images of their own face must come pretty close to genius. Nowhere is the blending of business with the skin-deep more apparent than in the crazy phenomenon called Face

Early Morning in Bloomsbury

2006-10-17T15:55:00.000Z

What is this confessional fever that grips me? Why must I chronicle every detail of my life? Is it because I fear it's a dream and believe that by fixing it on hundreds of screens I will somehow make it more lasting? When I woke this morning in Bloomsbury, the buildings through the blinds were orange in the sun, the sky was a delicious blue. My friend was pulling on his bespoke tailored suit,

Who needs the Eiffel Tower?

2006-10-16T08:46:00.000Z

Not only do I work for the most vibrant garment house in London, I must live in the most buzzing city in the world. For me, it's symbolised by the BT Tower. Not that the Tower itself is that interesting (though I can't help finding it strangely beautiful); it's more, I think, what it represents. Above all it represents London. In the year 2000 I studied at UCL and lived directly under it. Today,

The 5 As of a Good Man, according to Dorothy

2006-10-12T11:45:00.000Z

I met a woman last night. I can't tell you where without revealing things about myself I'm not willing to disclose, but I can tell you that her name was Dorothy and she dressed in only vintage clothes. She was enormous fun to be with and looked something like the woman in the picture above – that is, big-busted, sexy and free. Bizarrely we ended up in a chip shop off Tottenham Court Road,

London will be spotted purple...

2006-10-11T11:21:00.000Z

Outside my office window, the rain beats London. The buildings shimmer in the wet. I sit behind my desk, contemplating the perfect satin lining for my new pinstripe suit. The stripe is a fine, glistening grey. The fabric is Midnight Blue. I'm tempted to opt for a matching lining, but part of me leans towards the bright. There are four vibrant colours to choose from. Luminous Gold, Lime Green,

The quirkiest job in London

2006-10-10T09:00:00.000Z

I must work for the quirkiest company in London. Apart from writing this blog - which, in itself, is weird enough - I cycle round East Central on a 1950s pushbike making sure our products are ironed and posted, measure our customers for their personalised suits and every so often stand around in the cold handing out leaflets. 'A Suit That Fits', in short, are a bewildering company to work for.

Bespoke Icon of the Week: Olivier Martinez!

2006-10-06T09:09:00.000Z

They've called him the French Brad Pitt, but here at A Suit That Fits we think he's classier than that. They've called him Mr Minogue, but his potential, we think, is infinitely more exciting than that. The current face of Yves Saint Laurent, Mr Martinez is officially 'l'homme du jour', and to mark the end of Paris Fashion Week we've decided to celebrate this master of style by offering him the

Blue Sky and the Zen of Leafleting

2006-10-04T09:54:00.000Z

This was the stunning blue sky over London this morning as I took to the streets to hand out leaflets for the exciting new garment house 'A Suit That Fits'. The last time I was out beneath a cold October sky for any significant period was probably during school football matches, when I'd stand, shivering, in the corner of the pitch, praying the ball wouldn't come near me. This morning was an

Suits That'll Make You Late

2006-10-02T10:28:00.000Z

What better way of banishing the Monday morning blues than waking up in the bed of a handsome man who's just returned from the bathroom smelling of toothpaste and cologne and who is now slipping into a bespoke cashmere suit, fresh from the garment house A Suit That Fits? You watch as the trousers fit snuggly around his legs, close around the contours of his arse, then you reach over and put an

A Trip to Harrods

2006-09-30T18:04:00.000Z

When I took my mother to Harrods today, I thought the unavailability of everything would depress me (I wanted to buy an umbrella, but the cheapest I could find was 15 quid). Instead, something happened that was rather unexpected. I was wandering confusedly from room to room, becoming more and more exhilarated by the sights and sounds, when suddenly I realised I was moved. Perhaps it was the music

The Fetishised Body of Victoria Beckham

2006-09-29T10:50:00.000Z

Before you visit A Suit That Fits and purchase one of their excellent suits, pause for a moment and let me inform you about the exact nature of this thing you're about to do. In this age of consumer capitalism, one Marxist concept remains tellingly accurate: the phenomenon of commodity fetishism. Marx distinguished between the 'use value' and the 'exchange value' of a product; the former, he

Fashion... or should that be Fascism?

2006-09-26T08:38:00.000Z

If there was one thing the Nazis understood above all else, it was the power of image. With their flags, their rallies and their militaristic uniforms, they whipped the German people into a frenzy of hope and expectation. The uniform itself was designed to appear noble and powerful; it went on to become one of the single most influential dress codes of the 20th century. By adopting the military

Bespoke Icon of the Week: David Cameron!

2006-09-25T09:22:00.000Z

My feelings towards this man are complex to say the least. He's certainly powerful, sexy and devastatingly stylish. His skin is immaculate and his hair is beautiful. But at the end of the day he's still a Conservative. If he really cared about the environment, the health service, society's poorest families, why didn't he join New Labour? You never can trust a Conservative. Not even one with

London: Crown Jewel of Fashion since 1700

2006-09-25T08:47:00.000Z

Having moved very recently to London, all I hear is "Welcome to London!" "Welcome to London!" Sometimes this is said in a serious tone, as if becoming a 'Londoner' is something to be congratulated on. At other times it is accompanied with an ironic twist of a smile and a sharp glint in the eye, as if to say, "Welcome, but we'll see how long you're still smiling." All in all it is very welcoming.

The Mac Returns

2006-09-25T08:26:00.000Z

Let’s face it, Clark Kent always was cuter than Superman. The latter may have been unstoppably powerful and good-looking, but how relevant is his ridiculously pumped-up frame, his bryl-creamed quiff and camp attire today? Mr Kent represents something far more interesting: the uncertain man. He may not be able to save the world. He may not be able to pull off lycra. He may even be a coward or a

Diversity abounds @ New York Fashion Week

2006-09-14T15:28:00.000Z

In a dramatic shake-up to a week characterised by soft, palatable designs, Alexander Plokhov staged a catwalk show to remember on Tuesday night, combining a love of experimental construction with dark, brooding colours and an urban hipster vibe:Marc Jacobs, meanwhile, brought the ambience of the great American outdoors to his cute spring collection, featuring refreshing greens and khakis:...

Our thoughts go out to Marianne Faithfull: fashion icon

2006-09-14T14:10:00.000Z

Marianne Faithfull has been diagnosed with early stage breast cancer, her publicist announced today. Here at A Suit That Fits our thoughts go out to Marianne and we wish her a speedy recovery. We’d also like to take this opportunity to salute her for the amazing influence she’s exerted on the world of fashion, the bespoke tailored suit in particular.If there’s one woman who can show a man how to

Bespoke Icon of the Week: Camille Paglia!

2006-09-12T16:49:00.000Z

Ok, before you run and hide, hear me out. She may be the kind of woman whose total absence of softness scares men shitless, but there’s no denying it, Camille Paglia is a mean dresser. She’s not dissimilar to Margaret Thatcher, really, with her power-dressing, liberal-despising, anti-feminist approach to life. The only big difference is perhaps the red hair, which is surely dyed.I'm sure she

Who’s looking good?

2006-09-12T09:55:00.000Z

“Who is this sharp dresser?” I hear you say. Surely not the same guy who graced the stage with ‘off the cuff!’ favourite Miss Kylie Minogue in what looked like a white C&A shell-suit a few years back? (see below.) Yep. Would you believe it? Justin Timberlake has discovered the joys of a bespoke tailored suit. And now he’s looking rather fine.How many times do I have to say it? The bespoke

A Marriage Made in Heaven

2006-09-11T10:13:00.001Z

To coincide with the launch of New York Fashion Week, Brooks Brothers have announced the introduction of a ‘guest designer’ range, beginning in autumn 2007 with a 50-piece collection that will marry the traditional approach of America’s oldest tailors to the ultra-cool designs of Thom Browne. “Thom Browne's brilliant eye, his ability to foreshadow the market and offer a special look will bring a

Scissors: No Longer a Lost Cause

2006-09-10T11:28:00.000Z

In this permissive age of the 'ready-to-wear' suit, when you can no longer turn around on the Tube without bumping into a man whose business attire looks more like a sac than a suit, what will become of these bright, shiny scissors? Thanks to the wonderful sponsors of this blog, I've been able to save a pair from utter extinction. His name is Tailor, and he can be found by scrolling down to the

Simple is beautiful @ New York Fashion Week

2006-09-09T02:52:00.000Z

Perry Ellis Menswear kicked off New York Fashion Week last night with a collection of soft, unfussy designs, mostly in muted greys and creams. If you’d like to achieve a similar, understated look at a more reasonable price, try the classic grey and cashmere suit at www.asuitthatfits.com, or wait until Spring 2007 when these simple designs really hit the high street.

Kylie condemns the ‘ready-to-wear’ suit (allegedly)

2006-09-07T17:18:00.000Z

There’s nothing worse than a man in an ill-fitting suit. So said Kylie Minogue, apparently, in conversation with a friend of a friend of a friend of mine at a London show the other night. Despite her humble beginnings in the suburbs of Melbourne, it wasn’t long before La Minogue had turned her back on the ‘ready-to-wear’ suit and decided that only bespoke tailored men would do. According to my

Think you can handle pink?

2006-09-07T00:46:00.000Z

Until recently there was something incredibly sexy about a man in pink. Not only did it say, “I’m so comfortable in my sexuality, I can wear what I want,” it also suggested a level of confidence that would inevitably translate into the bedroom. Now that every Tom, Dick and Harry has donned a pink shirt, the colour has lost some of its charm. Pink is in desperate need of an edge.At ‘A Suit That

Bespoke Icon of the Week: Pete Doherty!

2006-09-06T17:20:00.000Z

Whilst not wishing to glamorise smoking, drug-taking or random acts of violence against reporters, I would like to raise my usually jaded voice in praise of Pete Doherty’s spectacularly retro/modish trilby/suit combination. All you aesthetically challenged men out there, pay attention. However lacking he may be in God’s graces, however disordered his life may be behind closed doors, Doherty is

"In which the writer compares the Bespoke Tailored Suit to the Bayeux Tapestry..."

2006-09-05T20:34:00.000Z

You may not know this but a well-made suit works in much the same way as the Bayeux Tapestry. Just as that great piece of medieval craftmanship must look hideous from behind, so the well-made suit, on the inside, looks like an intricate network of stitchings that appear to go nowhere but which actually work together to create that elegant and seemingly effortless outward show of masculinity which

The Ancient Art of Tailoring - Online!

2006-09-05T14:59:00.000Z

Do you remember or have you ever imagined standing in a tailor's, waiting for your inside leg, waist and chest to be measured, whilst staring intently at the wall, wishing they would just hurry up so you can go home? All so you can have the pleasure of forking out a massive chunk of cash for your 'bespoke tailored' suit? It's definitely not on the top of my list of favourite things to do. Now,