Designers in focus: Paul Smith

In order to stay ahead of the pack and get the look for your bespoke suit that makes you stand out from the crowd, I will be profiling designers over the next few weeks, so you can get a feel for what styles are out there and which you prefer. Knowing what look you’re aiming for always helps when choosing a bespoke suit and with so many variations abound, having a good sense of the overall impression you want to make, as well as what you want to wear with your suit is the best place to start.

So let's get started this week with our very own home-grown designer Paul Smith. The Paul Smith brand is worn proudly by many celebrities, including Daniel Day Lewis who recently accepted his BAFTA in a bespoke Paul Smith. Paul Smith’s suits are getting more attention than ever.

Paul Smith himself has coined the phrase “classic with a twist” to describe his own designs which he bases on traditional British men's clothing that he himself likes to wear. His “classic twist” style is reflected in the combination of the slim style suit that he has carved his own niche in and a floral shirt or a brightly coloured or kitsch printed tie. Bringing old-style tailoring up to date with a sense of British Rock ‘n’ Roll, the end result often hints toward a public school boy turned bad.

Knighted in 2001, Paul Smith is a long-standing and well-respected staple in the British and international fashion industry scene and also receives plenty of critical acclaim. Every item he produces in his 12 collections features his own signature multi-coloured pinstripe motif so you know you have an original; even some of his men's suits collections have hidden images of naked women and the iconic Big Ben in the cuffs. It is this sort of eccentric styling that has won Paul Smith the adoration of the industry and those that buy his men’s suits.

His latest collection to be launched for spring 2009 is a brilliant illustration of his love of striping; only now Paul Smith has moved into the realms of wider boating-style stripes. His upcoming autumn collection showcases multi-buttoned three-quarter length jackets and wide pinstriped tailored shirts. These are offset by dishevelled ties and trim, brightly coloured belts. It is this kind of play on traditional British wear that defines Paul Smith and sets him apart from the rest.

Designers in focus: Tom Ford

As promised I'm continuing to delve into the world of the men's suit designers who are turning heads worldwide, and this week I've been looking at the work of Tom Ford.
As an American designer famous for injecting a renewed sense of creativity at the Gucci fashion house in the 1990's, Tom Ford has worked his way up to the top of the fashion tree working for Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent to become the official and singular tailor for James Bond.

This is clearly the utmost compliment from a character that is considered the last word in taste and style. Daniel Craig's interpretation of this timeless classic has won the Bond brand critical acclaim, swathes of fans both male and female, and is one of the peaks of Fords career.

Since Brioni have retired as Bond's official tailors (since Goldeneye), Ford is looking to the next Bond outing, Quantum Of Solace to put the ultimate final stamp of effortless cool on his brand, which has now become famous for being famous.

Having launched his own brand, Tom Ford, only a year after his departure from Yves Saint Laurent, his sunglasses were the first part of his repertoire that first caught the attention of the celebrity jet-set, with the likes of Brad Pitt rarely seen without a pair. Now Pitt has moved up a few notches and was seen sporting a bespoke Tom Ford suit at Cannes this year. Proving how his bespoke suits and shoes receive the highest critical acclaim and celebrity endorsement even before the Bond contract, wearing the Tom Ford brand has become a comment on individuality in celebrity circles.

All of Tom Ford's menswear exudes a luxurious style and has won over the rich and famous as well as Mr Bond himself. Each of Tom Ford's bespoke suits is crafted in Italy to the customer's exact needs and exudes an air of quality and expert tailoring. According to the Tom Ford philosophy regarding bespoke menswear, “Style is an expression of personal choices made many times over.”

Looking at Tom Ford's collection brings about a sense of explicit sexuality and the cut of his trousers (whether as separates or as part of his men's suits) is as fitted as possible without being crass. The very definite waistline in these strides gives a man a reason to stand up straight and with that comes a sense of confidence and panache.

In order to emulate this kind of style in your choice of men's suit you will need the finest fabric you can afford and a definite confidence in your waistline. Combining these figure-hugging trousers with a Bond style jacket will give you a reason to put your suit on whatever the occasion.

Fabric

Having previously discussed seasonal fabrics, this week I'd like to look at the importance of fabric in any men's suit no matter what the season. We all know that the cut of a bespoke suit makes the difference between standing out in the crowd and having a standardised version of the suit you'd like, but let's not forget how important the right kind of fabric is in the equation.

Your choice of fabric emphasises why getting a made to measure suit is a much better investment than an off the peg quick fix. Any tailor worth his salt will spend time choosing the right fabric for your suit with you so that the suit maintains its best look no matter when you wear it. As an integral element of suit buying, choosing the right fabric is dependent on two main factors:

Fabric Weight

Getting the right weight of fabric for your suit so that it hangs in a flattering manner is as important as getting your measurements right. After all, if your jacket buckles or the trousers wrinkle half way through the day, the impact you have at that all-important presentation may not be quite the one you intended when you left your home in the morning.


The weight of any suit fabric is determined by the mix it is comprised of, wools and flannels being the heaviest. Suit fabrics are measured in density of metres; and the heavier your fabric the more sturdy your suit will be, but in some cases the less breathable. You can of course get wool mixes, which are created for breathability and will still keep the shape of your suit. But bear in mind that generally the denser the fabric, the hotter you'll be.

Most men's suits are made of mid-weight material to allow ten month wear, meaning you can wear the suit on all but the hottest days of the year. Discuss with your tailor where and when you intend to wear your suit in order to get the right weight recommendation.

Thread Count

The quality of fabric you're buying is determined by the thread count. Simply put, the higher the count, the better quality you're getting. Often associated with linens, which is one of this season's most popular fabrics, the thread count should be applicable to every kind of cloth that you might buy a suit in and is usually referred to as the “Super number”. Depending on what you're wearing your suit for, a Super count thread which is in the 400+ range, indicates a fine cloth that will not endure constant wear. Unless you're committed to replacing your suit often, these kinds of cloths are best left to special occasions and not for office wear.

7 tips to make sure your suit always looks its finest

1. The defining feature as to whether any men's suit looks its best is the fit. Bespoke suits are of course a perfect choice for the man who wants to look as stylish as possible with as little effort as possible.

One aspect of the fit, which defines the overall impression your suit will make, is the shape of the shoulders. Shoulder pads are used in most modern suits these days to accentuate the shoulder to look broad and straight. These pads should stand stiff with a sloping edge to give you a relaxed look and a frame to the suit. If the pads stand out too much, no matter whether you're compensating for shoulders that naturally slope or not, you look like a Star Trek character and that is never a good look!


The shoulder shape dictates how the suit sits on your frame. Most men do not have perfectly even shoulders, so make sure the buttons on your jacket are positioned to suit your unique shape.

2. The fit of the armholes is also very important for your overall impression. Any pinch age in the fit will irritate the armpit and cause perspiration, so try your jacket with a jumper underneath before committing to the size. High armholes give a suit a good drape. Make sure your men's suit has the right movement by making big gesticulations while having it fitted. A well fitted men’s suit jacket will not lift up while you are flapping about.

3. Choosing the right colour for your suit according to your hair and skin tone can also make or break a suit. Choose the wrong tone and you will be detracting from your face - a disaster in anyone's books.


4. How you care for your suit is crucial to how it looks and how long it will last. While bespoke suits are generally built to last and most suits do not wear frequent dry cleaning too well, have your suit steam cleaned to remove wrinkles (hanging it in the bathroom while you shower will have the same effect).

5. The length of a jacket is important, as it should always cover your behind. The suit should give an impression of height when it’s done right, and getting this wrong will create a stumpy and bizarre look!


6. Match your socks to the suit and not the shoes or belt. This attention to detail will mean that even when sitting, any glimpse of the sock will not detract from the suit’s look.

7. Slim down your wallet to avoid bulges in the lining. After all the care you have taken to get your suit looking great, don’t then go and add an enormous lump to its overall look. As well as looking awful, the constant wear on the fabric will spoil its integrity.